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  1. Police Scanners and Multi Frequency Recievers- A must in your tool box I was scanning through news articles yesterday and I came across a hack piece from a libtard site calling for the banning of police scanners, for of all reasons it allows people to listen to police and to rush to the scene of a crime, accident, debauchery or whatever the case may be. I refuse to link to it, its just not something I’m going to waste bandwidth on. However, it was a fine liberal slant on something I think everyone absolutely needs to have in their communications tool box. This is NOT an option. You, and by osmosis your group or family needs to have multiple ways of receiving information, and definitely not just from “official” channels. I, in a few ways am privy to how and track how “real” information gets skewed into what is the general story printed or online. For the majority of my adult life I have been on the sharp end of things and reading the Official WORD after everything has panned out, has shown me what really happens is almost always slanted or just reported incompetently. Yes, people fill in the blanks by making things up or just saying what fits what they want to believe. I know, right? Who would have known? Its that important As Ive posted here before, and I try not to rehash posts but this is something everyone need to have A Trunking, P25 phase 1 and 2, and multi digital mode capable scanner is your most effective line of defense to local emergencies. And I linked you one which comes preprogrammed for the lazy and the “one size fits all” crowd CB Radio Lets cut through the BS. Yes, every drunk, driving a lifted truck has one and never shuts up. Between that and the beer cans coming out the window and ZZ Top blaring out of the speakers it gives a negative view for most of us. Still, the frequencies need to be monitored, it wont take long to figure out the local channels you really don’t want to listen too, and that’s fine. I lock out a few channels too. CB radios need to do some simple things The must be capable of Side Band (SSB) operation. End of story They must stay on frequency no matter how warm the radio gets. Cheap radios tend to float off the set frequency, don’t fall for that trap with cheap junk. They must be able to accept common connectors for antennas and you need to make room for at least a listening antenna. A long wire loop works well, but don’t transmit on it The best CB radio on the market today is still I have 2 of these, one mounted in a plastic ammo box for use in whatever truck I’m driving and one mounted at home with a real antenna on the roof. This is just a quick look at where you should begin getting your communications listening station established. Its not tactical, not a sexy as armor and guns but its a necessary tool in your tool box. Police Scanners and Multi Frequency Recievers- A must in your tool box The post Police Scanners and Multi Frequency Recievers- A must in your tool box appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  2. Ive had multiple emails about this subject as well as my friend over at Brushbeaters. I will be doing a post very soon about communications gear for hunters and this post covers a lot of the same gear so you might take a look The Prepper’s Signal Kit: Line of Sight Equipment Suggestions Based on Requests The Prepper’s Signal Kit: Line of Sight Equipment Suggestions Based on Requests On May 17, 2018 By ncscoutIn communications, Survivalism I get a lot of questions regarding equipment- its a common theme, as a lot of the preppersphere focuses on what to buy. As anyone who’s taken the RTO Course knows, the actual equipment itself doesn’t matter that much with some solid foundational training. One VHF analog radio, functionality-wise, does the same thing as any other VHF analog radio. Students are usually surprised by the neat things you can do with a few bucks spent in wire and electric fence insulators along with guiding hand. We wring the absolute most out of whatever you have. But that aside, I do have some suggestions for the prepper just starting out and the more seasoned survivalist who’s graduated to the jack of all trades phase. Since many folks are asking about current production gear, let’s talk about it- specifically, what gets the job done for the money, and what’s really good for a little higher end. With that said I’ll state up front that buying a bunch of stuff and putting it in a bag or box and then never using it does you no good. You have to use your gear, whatever it is. Everything I own is used hard and heavy- not abused, mind you, responsible people care for their equipment– but used. I know the ins and outs of what I own, and you can be darn sure that if I suggest it, I not only use it, but I can show you the results. So for the folks that buy a case of Baofengs on Alibaba and then never take them out of the box, you’re doing yourself a disservice. Whether you’re buying a $20 Baofeng, a $200 Yaesu, or something somewhere in between, use your stuff and if it fails, you’ll know its limits. The next thing I’ll say is I definitely don’t require anyone to ‘be a ham’ or have any prior knowledge before coming to class. But having people to talk to is the most important part of the learning process, and like land navigation, marksmanship, and basically anything else, its very much a perishable skill. There is a learning curve to communications, especially emergency and field expedient uses, so having stuff just sitting around ain’t doing much for anyone. The unlicensed options out there, with the exception of CB, just doesn’t have much traffic and are mostly limited in what can be done. Even GMRS repeaters in most cases I know of are quiet- which may or may not be an asset to you. But having people to talk to does two things for us; it gives us a real answer to whether or not our gear works and it also allows us to branch out of our little bubble. So if you’re the guy running around screeching “I don’t need a license to learn!” you’re really doing yourself a disservice. I could care less what you do, I’m only here to help you make the most of your options; you either do it or don’t but don’t be shocked when heaven forbid you have to count on your skills that you haven’t worked on. It’s not like all these lessons are being repeated over and over in real warzones. Conversely, being in the licensed camp doesn’t mean we can’t or don’t use the license free options- I do all the time- and the flexibility of all the options gives us a broad range to use in our SOI and PACE plans in training. And that brings us to what we can cross off the list up front. Preppers and Survivalists have to make use of gear in a general purpose sense; the more options available, the more flexibility, which in turn means more resiliency. Anything that doesn’t allow us to modify or build an external antenna should be crossed off the list. This is primarily aimed at all those bubble pack FRS handhelds from Walmart that make bogus claims about 35 mile range. You’ll actually get about a mile out of them on a good day. I really don’t like them for the same reasons I don’t like Dakota Alert MURS handhelds or anything that’s set to specific channels- there’s no modification by the end-user that can’t be solved much easier by just buying something else, so you’re stuck with what you’re stuck with. That means there’s no flexibility. And for those of you claiming that they’re so easy to use, that might be, but they’re also ridiculously easy to intercept and screw around on. You’re only left with a handful of channels to work with- that a guy with a scanner listening wit one hand and radio to jam on the other can exploit. It’s not all that hard to do- I did it with a really basic (and old) scanner. Most newer close call scanners and even frequency counters also display the privacy tone, so that’s a false sense of security. The only (somewhat) exception is CB, but CB shouldn’t be your only communications means anyway because its incredibly limited. Around here it’s basically useless, unless you happen to speak a Guatemalan or Norteno dialect of Spanish. Of course if you do se habla espanol, you can score a killer deal on some laying hens, so there’s that . Local, Local, Local: Handhelds and Mobiles Ive beat this to death in here in my commo posts, maybe you should take a minute and breathe before buying that handheld? Old timers will tell you the first radio anyone should buy is a mobile, which is the exact opposite of what 99% of everyone does today. It’s neither good nor bad, it’s only a reflection of where the market is. But the reason they suggest a mobile first is twofold- for starters, it generally puts out more power meaning more reliable contacts at further distances and second, it takes a little effort to get a mobile on the air. Not much, but a little. You’ll learn some things about power sources and coax, how to put up your own antenna, and have a shorter learning curve once you’re actually on the air. The other thing about a mobile is they have a longer duty cycle- meaning you can talk on them longer with fewer breaks to cool them down. So what do I suggest as a startup mobile? If you’re just trying to get the job done, the QYT KT-8900 actually ain’t horrible. At under a $100, 25w on VHF, 20 on UHF, and 4 frequencies on the VFO (Variable Frequency Oscillator- the display), the small set works. And when I say small, I mean, it’s tiny. What’s very nice is that it fits in the dash of the truck and takes up almost no room, can be run off-grid from any 12v power source (as shown above) and it’s very simple to program with Chirp (see the sidebar for a link to download). But, like its chinese brethren, you’re not getting the best quality under the sun at this price. The VFO itself can act strange if scanning, the receiver is not the best in the world especially in the UHF range, and even though its not as bad as the first generation Baofeng, it does emit spurs. A step up in all around quality is to look for TYT’s version, the TH-8600, as it’s about the same size and waterproof for just a little more money. For about double the price you’ll get TYT’s quad band which includes 10 and 6m. We’ll talk about those in a second. And if you’re looking for highest quality with a company who backs their products up, look at Icom’s IC-2730. Off the shelf signals collection. Run the old close call in the middle, add a loop to one, a Yagi to the other, and a buddy team can draw a bearing quick in the field. But what about handhelds? Glad you asked. Since the de-facto prepper’s radio is the Baofeng UV-5R, and they cost somewhere between $25-35, there’s little reason not to own one for the simple fact that a large number of them are in circulation out there. There’s another, better reason to own one though- it’s an excellent test bed for homebrew antennas and a handful of other interesting applications for those who think outside the box. One thing that I do, as inferred by the pic, is to simply program it with all of the license free channels and set it to scan. So for $25, you’ve got a bubba detector with an incredibly long battery life. If you’re buying one, just stick with the UV-5R- the newer ones in my experience don’t offer enough improvement to justify any added cost. After saying all this, the drawbacks are many and it’s not the first handheld I’d pick up to carry on patrol. If you’re looking for an HT that’s still on the lesser-expensive side of the house but is a huge step up in quality, look into the Quansheng TG-UV2. It’s still an analog dual band handheld, but it’s far more rugged in build quality, also has a nice long battery life, includes a rubber membrane inside, and still takes the rapidly-becoming-industry-standard Kenwood two prong plug, so all the Baofeng accessories will also work. I’ve been using one for over four years doing everything from hunting, property patrolling, coordinating range drills between teams in class, and bumming around on the local 70cm simplex ragchew. The receiver is actually excellent considering the low cost and mine makes a good foxhunting HT. The only bad thing I can say about it is the programmers from Chirp never found it, so it uses it’s own software. Don’t let that deter you from an otherwise good little HT. It’s on my chest rig right now, hooked up to an H-250. If you’re wanting the best, for a survivalist looking at jack-of-all-trades gear really only has one answer that’s current production. The Yaesu VX-6R. The only thing that came close in terms of versatility, Kenwood’s TH-F6A, has been discontinued. Yaesu’s little HT receives 504kHz-1000mHz, everything from AM broadcast to shortwave to FM radio to Aircraft and above. And while it’s advertised as a tri-band, do the MARS/CAP mod on it and you’re enabling 6m FM use also. On top of that, it’s waterproof and incredibly durable being mil-spec shock rated. So while it’s a lot more expensive than the low end options, it offers so much more in terms of versatility. These two barely-used VX-5Rs were purchased for $25 each. That said, some of the recently discontinued rigs are also very good and can be found lightly used- that TH-F6A being one. Yaesu’s earlier HTs, the VX-5R and VX-7R, should be at the top of your hamfest fleamarket list, offering the same capability as the VX-6R above but in the case of the 7R, an even more durable package and no need for a hardware mod to enable full capability. All of these were made for a very long time and can be easily found. Purchasing one, even as a general purpose receiver, should be on your to-do list. It adds capability to your arsenal of equipment and redundancy with your other communications equipment, while each being well built and well established in an aftermarket. 10, 6 & 220: Off the Beaten Path We’ve been mostly talking about the most common equipment (that’s current production) off the shelf that works for getting the prepper up and running. It just so happens that 90% of the gear you find today is built for the 2m (VHF) and 70cm (UHF) bands. It’s the path most traveled and has the shortest learning curve as far as getting on the air. And while it’s still pretty easy to hide in plain site, in one of the recent RTO courses the class intercepted a conversation happening in the Blue Ridge, over 60 miles from our position. There’s a lot of reasons for that which are outside the scope of this writing, but still, there’s simplex traffic out there. If you’re looking for relative quiet and to set up an analog net with only those your really want to talk to, take a look at 10m, 6m, and 1.25 aka 220mHz. 10m is very close to the CB band (11m), and provides good local coverage in rural environments similar to CB but without the channelization. 6m, or 50-54mHz, is known as the “magic band” because in the summer activity in the E layer of the atmosphere allows some very interesting long distance propagation. But as a useful local band, I HIGHLY suggest it especially in rural areas. Like 220, its underutilized mainly because of the success of 2m and 70cm repeaters, so you just don’t find much on the air. And this is an asset not just for the quiet spots of conversation but also because fewer people will be looking for you there. But this is a gear discussion. We’ve already mentioned the suggestions for coverage on these bands above, but there’s a few other lesser-known choices. Wouxon makes the KG-UV5D, which is a 6m and 2m dual band handheld. It’s still a chinese HT, but they’re not awful. While I think for the cost better stuff can be had ($120 versus $170-$200 for the used multi-band options I listed above) they are out there for those seeking them- and they’re relatively simple to use sharing a lot of commonality with Baofeng’s user interface and all the same plug-ins. There also was (maybe still is) a 220 version of Baofeng, so if you’re looking to dive into that on the cheap, it’s out there. Shack in a Box: Creating A Base Unit Anywhere What if I want one thing to do it all? One and done. Well, the best option that’s still on the market new is the Yaesu FT-857D. It’s little brother, the 817, is hampered by a 5w output and doesn’t offer much as far as local uses go over a good handheld or mobile. The 857 on the other hand offers the same functionality and power output of a mobile, with the added benefit of different modulation modes such as AM and the sidebands, along with a very simple digital interface. It’s an expensive investment, being right around $800 as of this writing (with another $200 or so for a tuner if you’re working on HF) but its money well spent. Yaesu FT-897 Like all the other points contained here, browse the used market. Yaseu’s 897, the older and larger version of the same radio, can be found for a little cheaper on the used market. Icom’s IC-706 is extremely common, and it’s MKIIG version is the one you want to keep an eye out for. The IC-7000 replaced it with the same capability, while commanding a higher price. Like all Icom gear, the radios are incredibly durable and simple to use. All of the above are simple to run off the grid, and although full-powered rigs can be power hungry, they’re still not bad if you’ve got a good sized battery bank and a decent means to charge them. In addition the 857 and 706. Even if you have no interest in HF at all, they’re worth having for VHF and UHF use just based on the ability to work sidebands and AM as well as listen to HF and shortwave. If you haven’t noticed, redundancy is a big deal to me, and for a good reason. It should be to you too. At this point you might have more questions than answers, and that’s ok. Keep in mind, you have to first understand what the purpose of your station even is. Our primary focus here has been getting a general purpose station on the air using analog systems. Whether your purpose is community networking or getting an off-grid station up for a retreat, these are your common options in the wild which offer the most versatility on differing ends of the cost/build quality spectrum. Tactical use systems are different- and come with their own considerations. And these are all things covered in the RTO course, which we’ve got a couple coming up. There’s not another course like it offered anywhere, and it’s for everyone of all skill levels. We’ll see you out there. The Preppers Signal kit The post The Preppers Signal kit appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  3. I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt2 Part 1 here In part 1 I talked about ways to locate the animals you are hunting, and since most people come west to hunt Deer or Elk its pretty much the same. Now I’m going to talk about why I told you to grid your map and locate areas to check. In Arizona most seasons are 5-7 days long. This is not a lot of time to learn a new area. Areas in Az don’t look very big on the map, but on the ground they are plenty big. So using the techniques I discussed in part one and your map grids, pick a spot you are going to be glassing when the sun comes up opening morning. Have a second spot fairly close by if the first doesn’t work out. Break it down with 2-3 areas to check every morning. I like areas close together, say 1/2 to 1 mile apart so you can glass a good amount of area before it gets too late. If not check out water holes and fence lines looking for crossings. Find the Elk. They are there, trust me. You don’t have time to be fooling around, you CANNOT BE AFRAID to move around. Elk move , you have too as well. Glass for an hour or so and then if you see nothing scout around and see if the Elk are in the area. If there is no sign go to the next area you have plotted on your map. Have each day of your hunt plotted before you get there so its a systematic search for animals. Just driving aimlessly every day is a fast way to fail. Hoping you get one with the bumper is the wrong attitude. When most people hunting don’t see anything, they resolve to road hunt, driving aimlessly trying to see one standing on the side of the road looking at them. I’m anti road hunting. But I’m also not going to overlook a free Elk. So if I see one while moving between areas if I can get a shot legally I will. Notice the LEGALLY part And the very best way to see and shoot an Elk while moving in a vehicle is to follow another vehicle 100 yards behind and have your shotgun passenger glassing as you go. If you have a third with you have them looking out the drivers side so the driver can drive and stay on the road. I cant tell you how many Elk Ive shot by accident moving between glassing points when they stood absolutely still, 50 yards off the trail watching the truck in front of me drive by. The best advice Ive ever received about hunting is this. You don’t need a big one, you need a dumb one. And a herd you find by accident counts as much as one you find on purpose. But stay legal, its not worth loosing your hunting privileges over a stupid act. Now I’m going to talk about rifles, ammunition and loads. Controversy or Heresy? My record for Elk in the last 20 years is 17/17. That means I’ve drawn 17 Elk tags and shot 17 Elk in Arizona. So maybe I’m not an expert but I’ve been around a little and seen what works and what doesn’t. The most frequently asked question I get is “what rifle should I get?” I am not a fan of the high speed belted magnums ranging from 6.5 mm to 375. I’m just unable to process why anyone would want a rifle barrel which can burn out in 200 -900 rounds. I buy rifles my grandchildren will carry and shoot with the same accuracy I have now. So if the cartridge says Magnum on it, I’ll pass. The only exception I make is the 375H&H which has 30-06 velocity with an honest 375 caliber bullet and it is a killer on Elk. What caliber have I used most? This is where people look at me cross eyed. The caliber I’ve used most has been a .308. I have a 16 inch barrel Styer Scout which was my divorce present to myself after my first divorce. I say I use it with reservations, because people who have never been Elk hunting get the wrong impression watching TV shows. They are convinced you need a belted magnum and to get an Elk you are only getting shots 600 yards away. I call BS on that. Those shows are scripted to sell rifles. The shooters are put on a hill so they will be seen shooting long distances, if you look closely during the shooting you can see 1 shot on film but a pile of brass beside the rifle. Not every time, but enough I have very little use for this kind of hunting. Something to consider when shooting at longer ranges Is there a road anywhere near the animal? Can you drive a vehicle close to the animal? Is it at the bottom of a canyon, or worse on the far side of one? Do you have a production crew like the people who make the TV shows to help pack out the animal. You might do some soul searching and thinking before you pull the trigger. The absolute farthest I’ve ever shot an Elk has been 130 yards away, with a neck shot which I’ll be the first to say was a lucky spine shot. And I’m in no hurry to ever do it again. I’m so sure of that in fact, I let a giant 8×8 Bull get away because there was a cow who wouldn’t get off his shoulder until it was too dark to see. I’m haunted by that and it was 10 years ago. Its not about the rifle, or the caliber within reason. Its about the bullet and where you put it. Hunt into the wind, use your eyes and your optics more than your feet and if there are Elk there you will find them Bullets Without going into a nightmare of comparison and starting the endless online caliber wars, I will say you should use this very simple rule. And Im not ashamed I got it from Nathan Foster who has shot more game than I will in 10 lifetimes. Use a very tough, light for caliber bullet. Or use a heavy for caliber, soft bullet. So in a 30-06 a 150gr or a 165gr TSX would be a good choice, as the TSX is an extremely tough bullet made to penetrate deep before expanding. On the other end, a 30 cal Hornady 178gr ELD-X is a fantastic choice on animals the size of Deer through Elk. Bears in the lower 48 as well In calibers like the 35Whelen, the 180gr TSX loaded by Barnes is deadly, and the Hornady 250gr Interlock is as well. Its important to not confuse the bullet weight with performance because its a very different animal depending on what it was designed to do. If I had a majic, do everything in North America, bullet it would be a VLD-X in either a 250Gr .358 or a 270/300 gr .375. If I had a wish granted by the people at Hornady. Id stop buying the TSX at that point unless I were hunting Bison on this continent or anything in Africa. What I can also say…the VLD-X is half the price of the TSX if you buy components for reloading. I keep both mini editions in my truck glove box so if I have a new hunter its easy to explain exactly where the bullet needs to go So, what rifle? Buy a rifle you aren’t afraid to shoot, if you have a Deer rifle in 270, 280, 30-06 you are set. Run PREMIUM ammunition, with premium bullets, period. Especially if you don’t load your own. I am switching this year to Hornady Precision Hunter in my 30-06, I get mine from Sportsman’s Guide I generally buy a case of 10 boxes and that way they are the same lot number which is consistent with good accuracy Hornady, Barnes, Norma, Federal etc all load their own versions of premium ammunition. Don’t skimp on what makes or breaks your hunt. Remember if its a Barnes TSX go slightly lighter bullet weight than you would with a Cup and Core bullet. Barnes loads accurate ammunition, as does every other premium maker. An important fact for new western hunters Animals here are larger than animals on the east side of the US. An Elk has 10x the lung volume as a Whitetail deer. The bullets you shoot an Elk with do the same damage as the bullets you shoot a deer with, but it takes an Elk a little longer to get the message its dead. The simple reason is the Elk has larger lungs, and more volume to bleed into. Elmer Keith was very right about bullets for Elk. Hit it hard with a big bullet and keep hitting it as long as its in sight and in range. Just be aware, an Elk will not always drop like a deer when shot. Its a fatal wound, but you might want to hit it again. Have a plan for when the animal is down The first Elk I shot weighed 700 lbs on the rail. No guts, head or hide. Just meat and bones, a monster sized Elk. This is not something you load whole in the truck by yourself. Learn about what cuts to make after its gutted and skinned to get the most meat from your animal. I know, the next question will be ” How do I feel about the gutless method?” Three different meat processors have told me its a mess for the inexperienced hunter. Quarter the beast and bring it out bones and all. I don’t have that option anyway, the area I usually draw a tag in requires everything be brought out except the gut pile. I hope from reading this and other posts Ive done on hunting public land you are getting out and doing it. You can search this site using the Hunting category, I have multiple posts about tactics for Elk. Please if you have questions or comments feel free. I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt2 The post I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt2 appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  4. I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt 1 To everyone who has read my posts about hunting in the western states and applied for the draw, thank you. I hope you read this and take note of the techniques I use when hunting a new area so when you do draw a tag you can be ready. For those who drew a tag, this article is for you. I drew a tag, yeahhhhhhh. You wait impatiently watching the mailbox for your tag and you wonder in your mind, was it a good idea, will I be able to go, where are the animals, will everyone make fun of me if I go and don’t get one….ad infinitum. You’ve done the worst of it, you have a tag. It doesn’t matter at this point what kind of hunt it is, you need to get out and practice with whatever is your legal weapon. I normally draw a resident rifle tag so from here out I will be talking along those lines, but bowhunters or muzzle loader tags are in the same lists for hunt prep. What to do first? You need to make your packing lists and firm them up well. I had an October hunt one year and we got an early snow. I was not packed for snow but you can believe every year since that hunt, my cold weather bag and boots were in the truck when I left the house. You can always leave a bag or box in camp, but mountain weather is not to be underestimated. Plan for it. So get your clothing list made. Get your weapon list made- You really should carry at least 1 spare. An extra bow, or rifle is always a good idea. Things happen. I was on an archery hunt last year and the crossbow limb developed a crack, luckily it was the last night of the hunt and I was lucky all the way around that week. In all the years Ive hunted, 35+ at this count Ive never needed a spare rifle more than once. But I was very happy when a broken scope didn’t end my Elk hunt. Weapon specific gear- Cleaning rod and kit. You don’t need a rolling tool box but a small kit to keep the bore oiled in wet weather is never a bad idea. If you are hunting with a partner, work out what you both need and bring 1 kit. While you are thinking through your gear/ clothing list. You need to be going for a walk, every day. At least a walk. And probably more than a walk if you are serious about this hunt. You need legs and lungs to hunt at high altitude, and there isn’t a sofa workout in existence that will get you there. You have been dreaming about this hunt your whole life, get in shape to actually do it. I had a friend who wanted to hunt Elk in Az. He drew what was his dream hunt. It was a Cow tag, but it was his elk hunt. He lives at just over sea level in his home state and was in fair to decent shape, even though I warned him about the altitude difference. I tried to convince him to come a few days early, because I live just under 5000 feet, and he needed a few days to acclimate before we drove up to 7000 feet. We also needed time to fine tune his zero, as well as other minor things. As it turned out , he wasn’t able to get out until the day before we were supposed to leave. Altitude sickness sucks A zero at 700 feet is NOT a good zero at 7000 feet. So this poor guy was sick from day 3 to the day before his flight, because altitude absolutely kicked his behind. And he missed the only shot he had because he was convinced he was good with the zero he left home with. Live and learn. So get in the best shape you can before you leave home. Its going to be hard enough without handicapping yourself once you get out here. Scouting I now the next comment I get will be about how to find the animals before I get there. You need to order maps, or download them and print them out of your hunt area. Get on the forums, there are a lot of them and they are state specific. I counted 14 which covered Arizona alone. You are not going to get someone’s honey hole, but you will likely get people to tell you where to not waste your time. What I like to do Buy multiple copies of the map of your hunt area. Waterproof 1 copy and on the second copy, using a pencil draw the grids on the map you like to use. You want to break down the area into bite sized pieces using your forum connections and research the Game department web page. Call the office , find out weather, rainfall and animal movements. Another tidbit you wont hear from anyone else. Call the Forest Service too. Yes, the Forest Service You will also need Forest Service maps of the area you are hunting if it is public land. The Forest Service doesn’t speak the same language as Game Departments, their vocabulary is based on road and trail numbers, Wilderness area boundaries and boundaries of parks and Natl. Forests.` Also ask about fires. Yes fires. And scheduled controlled burns, which I guarantee will be uncontrolled very quickly. Research old burns, satellite photos help here for locating firebreaks and new roads which were pushed in to fight the fires. Forest rangers are very well versed in their district. Most don’t think much of hunters but some creative talk about wildlife photography usually brings out the information. Telling them you want to take pictures of animals without being disturbed by ” those nasty hunters'” has been known to work. Having a lady friend make the calls never hurts either. Some solid gold information 3-5 year old burns are solid gold for finding Elk. They love the grasses growing and the areas are open so glassing is awesome at first and last light. Satellite photographs are easily found online, they are cheap and you should locate the most recent Sat Photo you can find. A burn in a Black and White photo looks white or grey, heavy forest looks black. Simple but easy to mess up if you don’t know. Ariel photos are used to see roads, fire breaks and old burns starting to grow back. They will have waist high grass at year 3 after the fires, which will draw Elk and Deer like a magnet. If there is a water source close you have what we in the action business call, a “sure thing”. If this area is 2 ridges away from any access roads, you have hit the lottery, shut up and get in there the day before your hunt starts and set a cold, no fires, camp. You will thank me for that later. Im going to finish in Pt 2 so I keep those who don’t like to read my very long posts interested. I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt 1 The post I was successful drawing a tag…now what? pt 1 appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  5. Notice- Please read Ive been overrun with spam in the last 4 days. 1600 spam messages in the last 4 days, and I’m spending too much time deleting them so Ive bought a spam filter and its working. So, If YOU comment here and it doesn’t get posted please click on my contact page and email me and I will cut and paste your comment where it belongs. I want comments and value your opinions Thanks everyone for your support Michael Notice- Please read The post Notice- Please read appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  6. I have been on the Keto Diet for a few months and I am loosing my gut and feeling better than I have in 20 years. My joints aren’t swollen, I don’t have the back problems I had, I have more energy and I sleep like I’m dead Ive wanted to write something just like this for a while and I found it posted on FB, believe it or not. I give full credit to the author, he is posted at the bottom of the page, you should friend him on FB and follow him. Good, proven supplements are also important, and I stand behind them as well Enough from me, enjoy the post. Is keto not working for you? Well, I have an explanation that I wrote to a person in need of help. A failproof way to do keto. I did several months of 10 hour days researching “Correct” keto. Before even starting. Yes, I have lost over 30 pounds in 30 days. (Some rare people have a medical condition, and/or have certain medications that may make this not work as quickly, or correctly, and they should seek a pro keto specialist doctor in those cases. I am not a doctor, I am only repeating doctors.) But for the rest of us, this is a way that will work. There is no way around it. If I sound like the “Keto police”, lol, I am not. I am the CHIEF of the keto police. Lol. Want to get into the mind of a person that actually comes across as “Knowing it all” but in truth realizes nobody can know it all? Buckle up. Because this is strict keto. And you WILL see results if followed! There is no way you cannot. Here is what I wrote. Please no hate towards this post. It is correct, and intended for those that want to be very strict to achieve the very best results. Because keto is not a diet. It is a new understanding of the nutrition and eating patterns needed to be at your optimal health. I do this to hopefully save lives. Here we go. “This will be easy. Only if you can be hardcore. And realize, others will butt into this conversation saying incorrect things, but what they say has not helped you yet. So please try what I share for yourself. Whenever someone says “Breakfast”, “Snacks”, “Shakes”, and of course “Cheats”, I can see immediate red flags. But forget the cheats for now, that’s not the issue if they were that small, yet still an issue. OK, ketosis and “Fat adapted” are not the same thing. But go hand in hand. And you need to become fat adapted. You need to be in a constant state of ketosis for a long enough period of time (sometimes a month or two) for the body to learn a new trick, and that “Trick” is how to recognize and use fat as it’s primary fuel source. Once it learns that trick, you are fat adapted. The good news? You only have to become fat adapted one time! Your body will remember it like muscle memory. Now, to get fat adapted, you need to be in ketosis a long while, and contrary to what I see being spread here, you need to start intermittent fasting tomorrow. You can start slowly intermittent fasting over a week, and gradually get to your new “Eating window” that I will discuss in a moment. And you need to do it for life. Or as long as you want to be healthy. Remember this, WHEN you eat is as important as WHAT you eat!!! Snacking is NOT real keto. Read that again. Because when you snack, no matter how good a food, you are spiking your insulin levels, and there is no constant blood sugar. The reason you feel tired is because of this. When we get you IF (intermittent fasting) correctly, you will no longer feel hungry in between meals! Because fat as a fuel burns strong and long! All this eating is confusing your body, and it is not getting you one step closer to fat adaptation. (Knowing it can use fat as it’s primarily fuel source). And a main reason why some people fail. Yes, I will repeat certain things. Lol. I want you to pick an 8 hour window a day to eat in. You will NOT have ANYTHING outside the time frame to eat AT ALL, and ONLY drink water, or straight black coffee, or green tea! Remember, this is the strict way, because we need you to start seeing results! (And I am not yelling with the capitalization, we just don’t have italics here for emphasizing things, lol.) I choose noon to 8pm for my eating “Window”. Because I can make it without breakfast, and still have a nice big meal later in the evening to keep me satisfied through my 16 hour fast. (Good thing you sleep 7-8 hours of that fast, and yes, it counts! Sleeping is the best fasting there is, because you can’t cheat while asleep! Lol, ) This fasting mixed with your high fat eating window is how you teach the body to become fat adapted. Your body needs to trust you. By staying in a state of ketosis over a long enough period of time builds that trust. You NEED the proper electrolytes for keto! Your kidney’s are now excreting sodium rapidly in ketosis! It will CURE “Keto flu”! Or keep it from happening! Sodium. Use pink Himalayan salt. (It has 84 micronutrients) the broth is gone now BTW. Potassium. Get the salt substitute called “No salt” it is potassium chloride. Mix both into your food, you will get some potassium from your greens, especially avocado, but you need over 4500mg a day of potassium! Magnesium. Take 1 – 250mg pill each day with your first meal. You need B vitamins on keto! Buy “Nutritional Yeast” and have a couple of teaspoons a day, I just mix the flakes into my food. This stuff has most all B vitamins in a way best to be absorbed by the body. Also, buy ACV (Apple cider vinegar) with “mother”, shake the bottle well, and pour a couple of tablespoons in some water and some No salt, and pink salt. Drink this a half hour before each of your meals. The brand I use is called “Braggs”. A little lemon juice can help the taste and is OK. There are pill forms that work, but not as well. Be strong and adapt. You CAN. So please DO. The ACV helps your body absorb the nutrition from your food! It also promotes weight loss, and can stop upset stomach, muscle cramps, and a myriad other benefits! Drink it though a metal straw as it should not sit in plastic, nor on your teeth long. I hope you use a phone app like Carb Manager, I like that one because it is easy for me. Whatever you use, learn it well, and it will help everything. You MUST follow the 70% fat, 25% protein, and 5% carbs (under 20 grams carbs per day, under 10 is even better). Calories and macros matter! Too many calories, and you will gain weight, too few, and your body will go into starvation mode saving calories as fat. Use your phone app. NOTE: Update your new weight in the app every week or more. As you lose weight, your caloric intake will go down, and your macro numbers change! Many people forget to do this and keep eating the same calories and macros as when they weighed more, making them “Stall”! Too much protein vs fat turns into sugar! Always keep your fat intake above your protein intake. Never have BPC! (Bullet proof coffee) unless in your window, though some can do it, it is the downfall of most. Black or no coffee. Alchohol is NOT keto! Regardless of the type, or carbs, etc, just the alchohol in the drink itself can throw you out of ketosis. Dr. Berg has several videos about that. Don’t try and find a million ways to try and get things to “Seem” sugary. That want is going to go away with time. Once your body has been fat adapted long enough, when you slip up, you can be back on track very quickly! I have friends that have been keto two years, they are back into ketosis withing 24 hours of a mistake because their body trusts them, and sees it as a mistake. The longer you don’t mess up, the more trust the body has. If you mess up, it is not the end of the world. Just strive not to. Ever, if possible, lol. (NOTE: You can cut this next portion of info into 3 meals instead of two, in the 8 hour window. With NO snacking in between). So, your new day to true keto if you really want the weight loss and more importantly the health benefits, should be; Wake up in the morning, have nothing but black coffee, water, or unsweetened green tea (no artificial sweeteners!). Have your shaken AVC with pink salt and “No salt” mixed in water half hour before your first meal. Eat your first meal. Eat NOTHING, drink only water, black coffee, or only now, BPC (Bullet proof coffee), green tea. Have the AVC drink again half hour before your second meal. Eat your second meal. Sleep great knowing you are now doing 100% keto Correctly!! You do this for a month or two straight, and… You WILL become fat adapted. You WILL lose weight! You WILL have more mind clarity. YOU WILL NOT feel hungry or have cravings as badly. You WILL have more and sustained energy. You WILL have the best chance at fighting current or future disease! You WILL feel less anxiety and depression. You WILL be the best you, you can be! That, my friend, is failproof. That, is TRUE keto. Kevin Venture The post Is keto not working for you? appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  7. My First Big Game Hunt pt 1 This is going to be a series of posts from a friend who until now has never hunted and was never exposed to big game hunting. Bull Elk can weight up to 900 lbs Moose are larger Use enough gunSo without further from me, here is part 1 My world came to a crashing halt last October. My wife walked out. It seems like the majority of my life has been spent putting others needs ahead of my own. I was in a pretty dark place when someone I only knew from a military forum reached out to me when I really needed a friend. He helped me put my life into perspective. I quit my abusive and toxic job that I worked at to support myself and my wife. I am more willing to suffer abuse for someone else’s wellbeing than for my own. I am a former United States Marine Corps Staff Sergeant that is 80 percent service connected disabled. Neither one of my parents were hunters or cared for firearms. Somehow, I developed an interest in them around 7th grade. My new friend is an avid hunter. I know quite a bit about firearms, reloading and target shooting. I know absolutely nothing about big game hunting. I was offered the opportunity of a lifetime. My new friend offered to take me under his wing and show me the ropes. The first step in my new adventure was buying a hunting license. Arizona has a lottery draw for Elk hunting. I submitted my application for the lottery, just before the deadline. Then the anticipation of possibly being drawn for an Elk tag began to set in and actually made look forward to something positive in my life. I own a few different firearms for target shooting and self defense. In my opinion I didn’t own anything suitable for hunting Elk. Being unemployed meant money was really tight for me. I made the difficult decision to sell a very rare pistol. Going Elk hunting was more important to me than a safe queen pistol that I have only ever shot once. ED. What he doesn’t say is he sold an Automag , a fairly rare piece made famous by a Clint Eastwood movie. All around a cool gun. I decided that I wanted a .30-06 bolt action rifle made from carbon steel with a wood stock. I wanted to take a step back in time when craftsman were allowed to perfect their trade. It seems like most affordable bolt actions made today are poorly constructed using plastic in place of wood. I can appreciate modern technology in the form of a top shelf synthetic stock like HS Precision or McMillan. I am on a tight budget, so those are not a viable option for me. I began searching for a new to me rifle. I went to all of the local gun stores in my area. Frustration began to set in as I could not find what I was looking for in my mind’s eye. Then I walked into High Country Guns and Knives in Prescott, AZ. I found a Dickson-Howa Golden Bear, .30-06 bolt action, blued carbon steel with a wood stock for a more than fair price. The rifle was built in 1967. It is a Japanese clone of a SAKO Finnbear. The bore was shinny and bright. It was exactly what I was looking for in an affordable rifle. It followed me home. The next decision was what scope to put on it. My friend informed me that the farthest realistic range for the hunting area we are going to is 200 yards or less. Years ago I purchased a Trijicon 1.25-4X Accupoint for an AR-15. Repurposing the scope was the most affordable option for me, but I still needed to buy a set of scope rings. I was set on Redfield rings. My friend suggested that I look at what Leupold had to offer. I am happy he gave me another option. After researching both brands I decided on the Leupold rings because they allowed the scope to be mounted much lower than the Redfield rings. I repurposed a set of sling swivels of an unknown brand and a 1” Brownells Latigo Sling. Loads I am now in the process of load development. I bought 100 pieces of Norma Brass, 100 Federal Trophy Bonded Tip 165 grain bullets, Federal Gold Medal Primers and VV N550 powder. I borrowed a set of RCBS .30-06 reloading dies from a friend . Rodney R Look for the next in this series upcoming My First Big Game Hunt pt 1 The post Guest post- My First Big Game Hunt pt 1 appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  8. http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2017/05/john-boch/springfield-armory-rock-river-arms-made-campaign-contributions-to-anti-gun-rights-politicians/amp/ It appears they have sold out the gun owners of Illinois and are continuing to spend money to anti gun activist state senators. Vote with your wallet, and spend wisely. Every law against your rights no matter where you live is a law taking away from YOU. I have issues with their products and have for years. Im quite happy to state I have never spent money for either of the two’s products. http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2017/05/john-boch/springfield-armory-rock-river-arms-made-campaign-contributions-to-anti-gun-rights-politicians/amp/ Springfield Armory and Rock River are sellouts The post Springfield Armory and Rock River are sellouts appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  9. The Brevity Matrix This is another post from NCScout at Brushbeater.com I have no end of respect for his work on making communications understandable for all levels of users. Im going to make my own comments first so you can read this with my thoughts in your mind. First, these are templates, you should make your own instead of using the examples, which are very well done in themselves, however this is a public forum and you should think about that in the context of this post. Second would be unless you are memorizing this , every RTO ( Radio Telephone Operator for you non vets) needs a copy. Brevity codes are nice for making messages shorter. However, there have been times in the past with militaries where the communications people were carrying so much gear they gave away the whole game when they lost it or were captured/killed. Another point to make, remote operation. Using a long transmission line to transmit brings up new problems. Transmisssion lines are available which are very efficient, but you cannot remove the laws of physics, and the longer your transmission line is, the more losses you will have. To alleviate this issue you have to use a higher transmitted power, and the ensuing issues with SWR and tuning/resonance at the antenna. The solution in the military in units which rely on stealth is to move a significant distance from the area of operations (AO) and transmit as they need then return. This is measured in tens of miles from the AO. It is also why there are communications windows and schedules. If someone has a better way of explaining that please jump in in the comments section, or send me an email and I will add yours to the post. The Brevity Matrix On April 27, 2018 By ncscoutIn communications, Intelligence In the RTO Course we spend the bulk of our time on basic skill building- operator technique, antenna types and construction, planning and report formats for sending information rapidly and accurately. It’s a starting point, covering the basics in two days. With that said, one of the common questions I get is regarding the length of the reports when they’re sent. If interception is a concern, and it always is, how do we shorten this up or obscure it to the point of being useless to listen to? There’s a few answers to this question, including going high tech/more complicated/more expensive with equipment, more efficient antenna construction for directivity, and finally, creating a BREVMAT. A Brevity Matrix, or BREVMAT, is a randomly generated series of codes that are commonly understood by your group and shorten the transmission. In the amateur radio world we use Q codes, and 10 codes are the most widely known in both the CB and public service realms. Like I state in class, what you and your group do is up to you- if the basics are observed and everyone is on the same page, then it’s not wrong. Tactical BREVMATs are created and included in your Signals Operating Index (SOI), they are recycled each time the SOI changes (which is usually a set period of time, and for missions, mission-specific). This information can then be encoded into a One Time Pad (OTP) message and sent to higher analysis and control element (ACE) if coordinated over a region. The following is a sample BREVMAT sent in by a very well seasoned reader (it’s much appreciated my friend, stay frosty) and a template for you to follow: It may look somewhat complicated and a lot of work, and make no mistake, it is – but this is not an easy business and takes discipline to get right. As another well experienced individual stated in class, you’ll want to know this stuff when your life actually depends on it. There’s a heck of a lot more to low level armed conflict than tearing off into the bush with a $1500 weapon and cool-guy kit when your only training is shooting fast at stationary targets; the people that do that are speed bumps for the well trained, unassuming guy with a 30-30 and a solid plan. Another well done post I have neglected communications on this page for too long and I will be doing more cross posting from NCScout in the future, why duplicate a good effort The Brevity Matrix The post The Brevity Matrix appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  10. AmRRON Dark Labs One Time Pad (OTP) Generator This was written up by a commo genius and friend over at https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/ https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/2018/04/30/amrron-dark-labs-adl-1-otp-generator/comment-page-1/#comment-5594 I would recommend the communication section of your group take some time and review this piece of gear and cobble your pennies to get at least 1. One time pads are as secure as it gets, and like NCScout points out, its easier to track down the transmitter than it is to break the pad code. A few thoughts from me One time pads (OTP) are exactly that. You use each sheet 1 time, that’s why they are named individually. You can use a pad multiple times for classroom training, which is a good idea so people who are new at the encryption/decryption game to learn. However, each message requires a new pad, so if you have multiple people with pads they need to know to check the pad names before attempting to decrypt. When the comms section puts the pads together its best to staple each pad in the same order so when a team receives a message they can tear off the pad sheet they used and burn it. And the other teams know to use the same procedure 1.e if sheet name GHOST is used to send a message all the users tear off GHOST and burn it as it has been used once. Enough from me AmRRON Dark Labs: ADL-1 OTP Generator On April 30, 2018April 30, 2018 By ncscoutIn Intelligence Most of the readership is at least familiar with the American Redoubt Radio Operator’s Network (AmRRON), a radio organization dedicated to communications among operators in the American Redoubt region but also nationwide. They hold several regular exercises and events aimed at getting preppers on the air, networked and using their equipment with a more grid-down focus than most conventional radio operators normally would. It should come as no surprise that in addition to the ability to communicate off-grid, many desire a need to encode messages and its a frequent question I get in emails. People value their privacy and there’s no simple answer; those of you who’ve asked me know that I always start with, “it depends”. Tactical communications, being local and immediate in nature, have a different focus than longer term situation reports or intelligence cables which deal with regional, infrequent communications. Whether these are over the air or sent by a messenger, one of the older and still most effective forms of encryption for the latter is by the use of a One Time Pad (OTP). One of the ways to do this and guarantee generating truly random numbers is through the use of 10 sided dice, rolling and writing the numbers down on a pad. This is highly time consuming, especially since each series of numbers is only used once and some messages are hundreds of characters long. AmRRON Dark Labs, a type of Skunk Works for the Patriot community, has built a machine which makes the whole process much easier- the OTP generator. How do we use the OTP? Check out this simple practice exercise to get you up to speed. This is a device designed to be used. Enclosed in a pelican-type case, I have no issue packing this into a ruck and carrying it into an area of operations. There’s no worrying if it gets dinged up. Further, the Dark Labs team have essentially made the device idiot-proof, meaning for most of us we can use it even when we’re running low on caffeine and that’s something I highly appreciate. As you can see in the photo, there’s only four buttons for the controls and the whole system can be up and running in seconds. It uses two 18650 Lithium Ion batteries which provide an incredibly long battery life. I charged these once and have been using it intermittently for over a month and the device shows no signs of dying. So long operation in the field and off-grid is not a problem. To start the process, hit the switch and press the graph button on the far left to set the number of digits. Next press the gear button to begin the generation of numbers. When you do this the Ready LED will flash orange, then green. Green indicates the pad has been generated and is ready to print. You can press the lined button to the right of the gear button to select whether you want just the Pad, the Pad plus Codex (the conversion table) or just the instructions, which generously print the method to use the OTP. Once you’re ready, hit print. You can print as many of the same Pads as you need by hitting print repeatedly. The firmware includes a five minute timer on the pad, so that once the time period has expired, the pad is erased and cannot be retrieved. The whole process cannot be simpler or more convenient when equipping groups with pads for use over a period of time. Now we’ve got three pads- one for the TOC and two our teams, all serial numbered and ready for distribution. Quick, simple, and a heck of a lot faster than generating them by dice. From using this device I can say it works exactly as advertised. It’s one of the very few pieces of gear that I can honestly say I have no complaints with and its simplicity is its strength. Some of the early concerns on the AmRRON site were questioning the true randomness of the number generation. But the code itself is open source for you to modify and the firmware is easily updated on the machine. They leave it up to you, as you need it. I haven’t made any changes because I don’t think its necessary, especially after seeing the robustness and simplicity of the generator as is. It does indeed generate random numbers- and the better bet for an opposing Intelligence Multi-Function Team (MFT) would be to simply intercept the sender/source then try to break it. It just eats up too much time for too little gain, especially if a group is also using a Brevity Matrix for another layer of security before encoding the message. I highly suggest this device for groups of preppers networked over a region that may be wanting to share sensitive information or if they’re just wanting that old Enigma Machine vibe. Pick up one today and support those that support you- we take care of our own. A big thanks to AmRRON and the Dark Labs team for asking me to provide an end-user assessment of the machine. AmRRON Dark Labs One Time Pad (OTP) Generator The post AmRRON Dark Labs One Time Pad (OTP) Generator appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  11. Giveaway- Yippee a free holster-May 2018 Ok here it is I talked about this on FB both on my page and in a few groups Its a Cherries Holster Givaway holster, actual holsterNo the gun does NOT come with it, sad I have to explain thatThis one came stripped with just the low ride belt loop attached from Cherries. And I’m good with it, you get a virgin holster for Glocks. Ok maybe not a virgin since my 19 has been in it for pics, but you’ll never notice. Whadda ya want , its free? Yes Glocks, though I am finding it fits a whole lot more than just Glocks. The paperwork says it is for 26,27, 19,17, 22,23 and 21 SF. I know it fits a regular frame 41 as well. So if it doesn’t fit your gun what can I tell you, go buy a gun that does fit. A 1911 is a cool gun to show your friends, a Glock is what you show your adversaries. THE GUN DOES NOT COME WITH THE HOLSTER Why am I giving this away, or like someone will ask, whats wrong with it? I ended up with 2 when I went searching for these to look at. I blame the readers who asked me about them. RULES Here ya go, yes there are rules.- Why? Because this is my site and I can make rules You MUST live in the United States– holsters are regulated by ITAR and cannot be exported. Yes I know you can buy it at the corner Terrorist Outfitter’s store but I’m not going to jail over a holster ok? I’m not liable if you shoot yourself while using this thing. If you accept this prize YOU are responsible for anything you do to cause harm or death to yourself or others. If you cant handle this thing you probably shouldn’t have anything more dangerous than a box of crayons in a holster anyway. You have 72 hours, 3 days, to respond to my email or it goes to the next guy on the list. If you get an email from Quietsurvivalist@yahoo.com, batman would call that a clue. Ill need an address to mail it too. ANYTHING I have forgotten and didn’t put in the rules are still rules, they are surprise rules. And if you don’t win, and get butthurt , you are just going to have to get over it Don’t ask me if it fits a specific gun other than I already stated, the answer will be FIIK. And if I come back and add rules when I remember they still count. What you do to get in this contest Go to the right side of the page, or on the bottom on a mobile device and enter your email to subscribe/receive notifications when I post. And use an email you will actually look at so I don’t have to tell 11 people they won before I get a response!!!! That’s it, no muss, no fuss, no hidden secret handshake. Draw will be on June 1, 2018 Giveaway- Yippee a free holster-May 2018 The post Giveaway- Yippee a free holster-May 2018 appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  12. Appendix for big dudes This is another guest post from Aaron at GypsyEDC Since I am not as qualified to talk about appendix carry by people who are rather portly. I thought Id post this here, so if you are on the heavier side you can read his thoughts. Posted by Garret on Jan 27th 2018 I started concealed carry with a short barreled Ruger Super Single Six with a bobbed barrel (I’d say a scientific about 1.5” barrel), semi-bobbed and smoothed hammer and no sights. I would tuck it into my hip pocket or up front either appendix or cross draw and wear it canted and tucked in all day. I recognize that a bob-barreled, no-sighted, single action 6 shot 22 magnum isn’t the best self-defense weapon, but I was incredibly poor (so I shot 22 LR out of it mainly), loved that Single Six, and practiced with that gun until I could bounce a pop can or dry cow pie within 50 feet with all six shots by thumbing the hammer with my left hand, holding the trigger down with my right, and keeping the gun moving with the target. From there I got other jobs, made more money, and quickly moved to Mexican packing revolvers wherever they were most comfortable, which was usually tucked into the front of my pants with a little cant. So the transition over the years to a modern pistol in appendix was super natural. For years I didn’t realize there was such controversy over this, which is a horse that has been shot dead, then passed to the other side which flogged it with vigor, then back to the side that shot it in the head to begin with, and so on and so forth. I’m not getting into that. Everyone should carry, I don’t care how (to a point), and don’t really care what you think about how I carry. This article is for big guys who either are into appendix, or are thinking about trying it. I want to address two things: a) nothing under the sun is new, and b) few of the current crop of appendix holsters are not made for comfortable carry. Nothing under the sun is new I continually come back to the realization that we have lots of time for baloney mental activities, and that the old ways of doing things are typically faster, easier, cheaper, and more comfortable. I believe appendix as we call it falls into that category as well (at least faster, easier, and more comfortable). This current round of hand wringing about “it’s not safe” or “you’ll shoot your nuts off” has about as much convincing power as Ralphie’s mother on Christmas Story, because it’s the same argument. “Danger! Danger! Danger!” News flash, guns are dangerous even though they now have more built in safeties than even John Browning would have imagined. I think we can all agree that handguns from the blackpowder era through single actions were significantly more dangerous to the user than the vast majority of handguns fielded in concealed carry today. However, as you can see with a quick internet search there were many practitioners of some form of inside the waistband carry of either things that shot or things that sliced. I hope we can recognize that carrying weapons that are intended to be used to kill other people have been carried in front of the body since probably the first caveman stuffed a femur into his loincloth to go kill his cross-cave rival. Why? Ockham’s razor: it’s easier, faster, and more comfortable. On to point 2b! Most of the current crop of appendix holster are not made for comfortable appendix carry. They look like they would have the same level of comfort as if you stuffed a section of 2”x6” pine in the front of your pants. The following pictures all depict holsters very similar to those I’ve tried in the past. I just ripped the pics off the net, I don’t know the makers, so nobody get their panties twisted. I’ve circled in red some of the edges or points that caused discomfort for me when sitting or driving for extended periods of time. I have a friend who has been a custom boot maker for years and describes spots that cause discomfort as “hot spots.” That is the perfect way to describe appendix holsters that look cool, but have either sharp or thin-on-the-edge portions that cause hot spots in private spots. I’ve had even the bottom end of the belt clips circled above create these hot spots. I find it typically starts to get pretty uncomfortable right at the junction of my pelvis and right thigh/hip flexor region or right above the base of the essential equipment, if you’re picking up what I’m throwing down. Below are my two preferred holsters, both by Gypsy EDC. The major advantage I’ve found to these over either double attachment point or one single large attachment method is the holsters are able to cant with normal use and a big dude physique. Everything nice and smooth, no sharp edges. The pictures make the edge look jagged, but they are just worn smooth from carrying. Here’s how the pistol sits. I’m a big dude. 6’1”, 255lbs, and technically “morbidly obese” according to the union physical scale I used to participate in when I was a boiler welder. I played college football and all the twisted steel and sex appeal has turned into 6 kids, a job that doesn’t entail working out twice a day, and I can still appendix all day long without any issue at all. So I often wondered why people who were significantly skinnier than me would complain about the discomfort of appendix. I believe the reason they experience this is because they are either using holsters from makers that don’t actually pack appendix but are trying to capitalize on the market trend, or they have one that doesn’t have the position/movement to mimic Mexican carry. I don’t know a person who has just stuffed a pistol down their pants and complained of discomfort. Like Greg Ellifritz said, “Thousands of Thugs Can’t Be Wrong.” In closing, if there are any big dudes out there that have wanted to pack appendix but are being poo-pooed, ignore the naysayers whose only argument is that it is unsafe. No shit. Guns are dangerous like a big, strong dog or fast car. They’re not for everybody and having a pet lab isn’t the same as having a trained Belgian Malinois or Caucasian Shepherd Dog. On the comfort side, get a holster that is as small as possible, wear it, and when pain points arise grind them off and polish smooth. Be less concerned with having to reholster the weapon than how it rides and presents, because comfort is paramount. I will take a holster that is comfortable but might be marginally slower on the draw (such as the the MCH or BONES) and might even preclude reholstering but I have it all day long baby, rain or shine, driving or walking. There’s my two cents from almost 13 years packing appendix Appendix for big dudes The post Appendix for big dudes appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  13. Cherries Below the Waistband Holster review Part 2 Due to technical difficulties I split this post Cherries Below the Waistband Holster review Part 1 Once I unboxed this holster I saw a few things I didn’t like from the word go First, again were the screws. Enough said, rant off. I needed to remove the belt clip, rubber spacers and the female side of the screws without loosing them on the floor, which I managed to do. No one was more surprised than I, when the Below the Waist clip went on with NO drama, the screws are shorter and fit together correctly without having to use a vice or other compression tool to get everything back together. Before I attached the belt clip I took a few minutes to check the fitment of the holster to a few guns I had handy. Yes they were unloaded for the readership Surprisingly….this thing fits both frame sizes of Glocks That’s a 41 , which for those who don’t know, is a long slide on the 20/21 frame which is the largest frame Glock produces. And yes, a 17, 19 and 26 fit just fine. I have a 19 in the pictures and I’m impressed the designers of this holster made it work. How does it work? I took the pictures with my Glock 41, because with a holster like this you would think the larger guns would have the most issues. I’m very happy to say when I asked my son to take a few pictures of me wearing the holster and gun, he asked me if I was going to wear it before he took the pictures. When I showed him I was wearing the 41 he was impressed. Yes I’m barefoot. The rest of the world its snowing but its 80 here An advisement If you wear a riggers belt like I have on in the pictures, the belt clip is too small to fit over the belt. I resolved it by putting the belt clip inside the strip of Velcro holding the ring on the belt. A 1.5 inch dress belt would have no problems with this belt clip, and the clip would disappear against a black leather belt. Yes this would be an excellent choice for wearing a gun with dress pants and a tucked in shirt What do I think? I’m kind of up in the air about this holster. In the case of using this for a full sized gun in business clothes it does have potential, you don’t need a jacket or vest with it. Unless someone who knew what they were looking at saw it you are good for NPE. As a daily carry I’m not sure I’m going to replace AIWB carry which Ive been doing for 15 years. You are also limited in carrying extra magazines , there is no provision for magazines with this holster, and ammunition on the belt in this case would be counterproductive in concealment. If you understand its limitations, take the time learning a new draw stroke and understand the trigger is unprotected through part of the draw stroke you will be fine. If you cant handle any of that you should leave this holster alone, regardless of what gun you buy it for. Cherries Below the Waistband Holster review Part 2 The post Cherries Below the Waistband Holster review Part 2 appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  14. Cherries Below theWaistband Holster review I like to respond to my emails and comments, especially concerning holsters and other gear. What I don’t like is most holsters are just like most fishing gear, its designed to catch the user more than its designed to work. I know that’s not the popular attitude online but, that’s why you are reading this instead of the regular gun rags. Whats the point of me doing a review of this one? I did a series on carrying concealed and how things work with different clothes. An ugly reality of living in Arizona and wearing business or smart casual clothing is a belt holster can not be concealed without your shirt tails out. And, sometimes you cant do that, you have to be tucked in and presentable. Yes I know there are IWB holsters made for tucking your shirt but I have more than a couple of them and I’m less than impressed with the execution. The post Cherries Below theWaistband Holster review appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article
  15. Missing comments Recently I received an email from a person spamming my comments. I don’t feel this page is for marketing porn or software designed to hack other sites I review every comment, If in some way your comment got deleted incorrectly please contact me on my linked comment page and I will discuss it with you. However, if it is spam, and comes from an address linked as a spam site, I will delete it. And for those people who comment and email me constructively, Thank you The post Missing comments appeared first on The Quiet Survivalist. View the full article

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